Your future holidays in Europe

The capital of Portugal, Lisbon (Portuguese: Lisboa) has experienced a renaissance in recent years, with a contemporary culture that is alive and thriving and making its mark in today's Europe. Perched on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, Lisbon is one of the rare Western European cities that face the ocean and uses water as an element that defines the city. Lisbon enchants travelers with its white bleached limestone buildings, intimate alleyways, and an easy going charm that makes it a popular year round destination.

Understand

Like Amman, Iasi, Istanbul, Rome, Sheffield, San Francisco, Yaounde and Seattle, Lisbon is built on seven hills.

The sparkling new Lisboa Ask Me Centre (Pç. do Comércio, Tel. +351 (21) 031-2815, open 9AM - 8PM daily) will help you find accommodation and the staff are happy to dispense advice, maps and brochures. Smaller Ask Me Lisboa kiosks are dotted about the Rossio district and airport and their multilingual staff also have maps and brochures.

The Lisboa Card, which can be purchased from tourist information outlets, offers free use of all public transport in the city and free or reduced price tickets to many museums, galleries and tourist attractions. They can be purchased in 24 hour (adult / child: €14.85 / €7.50), 48 hour (€25.50 / €12.75) and 72 hour (€31.00 / €15.50) denominations. They are not very good value unless you plan to visit a lot of museums. Especially so if you are a holder of a student identification card (international or national) since the student discounts to these attractions are often the same as for the Lisboa Card.

Get in

By plane

Portugal's largest international & main air hub for Tap/Air Portugal is the Aeroporto da Portela, located between Loures & Lisboa (IATA: LIS; Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas, Tel: +350 (21) 841-3000, Fax: +351 (21) 841-3675, [1]) which is linked to the city center by an Aerobus (line 91) every 20 minutes from 7AM - 9PM and bus lines 5, 8, 22, 44, 45, 83 (board fare €1,35 or 7 Colinas can be used which can be bought at the airport post office).

• A ticket for the Aerobus is €3.50 and is valid on all public transportation lines for one day.

• Taxis cost about €10 from the airport to the city center. Charge is according to the meter, adding €1.20 per item of luggage. As with many cities, watch out for dishonesty and if you think you are being charged significantly more (paying €45 to get into the city but only €6 back to the airport is not unheard of) ask for their number and a receipt, and make it clear you plan to complain. To avoid fraud, you can buy a taxi-voucher in the airport (€18 - a lot more than the average real meter price) which is good to go anywhere in the center, with luggage. Make sure to ask the driver how much he estimates the fare will be before getting in the taxi, which will diminish the chance for a surprise bounce in the price.

By train

There are two big train stations in Lisbon: Santa Apolónia and Gare do Oriente. However, if you are entering Lisbon from the south, you may want to get off at Entrecampos or Sete Rios: their metro stations are a few stops closer to the central and old town.

If arriving from the north (Porto, Gaia) and center (Aveiro, Coimbra) of Portugal use Santa Apolonia, close to Alfama/city centre.

Cais do Sodré is another important train station, connecting Lisbon to Cascais/Estoril coast.

By car

Lisbon can be accessed from six main highways. Coming from the south (A2) or east (A6 - the main route from Madrid), there are the two bridges:

The A2 goes all the way to the 25 de Abril bridge, which usually has lots of traffic getting into Lisbon, especially on weekday mornings. This is the best option if you want to go to the center of Lisbon or to the west (A5 - Estoril, Cascais, Sintra).

If you branch from the A2 into the A12, you'll get to the Vasco da Gama bridge, the longest bridge in Europe, it usually has less traffic than the older 25 de Abril bridge (but a more expensive toll). This is the best option to go to the eastern/northern section of Lisbon (to the airport and to the Parque das Nações - the former Expo 98 site), and also to take the A1 or A8 going north.

Coming from the north, there is the A1, that connects Lisbon to Santarém, Fátima, Leiria, Coimbra, Aveiro, Oporto. The A1 ends near the airport. There's also the A8, which goes to Torres Vedras, Caldas da Rainha, Alcobaça, Leiria.

From the west, there is the A5, which connects to Estoril, Cascais, and the IC19 that crosses all the suburbs and ends near Sintra.

Lisbon has three ring roads: The 2ª circular, which connects the A1 to the IC19; the CRIL IC17 (still incomplete), which connects the Vasco da Gama bridge with the A1 and A8; and the CREL A9, which connects the A1 with the A8, IC19, A5, and goes all the way to the Estoril coast.

Regarding toll highways - Portugal has a unified electronic toll paying system - it's usually on the one or two left most lanes of the toll booths, marked with a green "V" (Via Verde - "Green Lane"). If you don't subscribe to the system, pay the toll at the manned booths (cash and most debit and credit cards accepted). If you by chance get distracted and go through the Via Verde lane, you have 48 hours to go to a Via Verde office and pay the toll without a fine.

By bus

All nearby cities and most major cities in Portugal have direct buses to Lisbon. The main bus terminal is at Sete Rios (metro: Jardim Zoológico). Rede Expresso [2] is one of the largest inter-city bus companies.

By boat

You can get a boat to Lisbon from the following stations: Barreiro; Trafaria; Montijo; and Cacilhas. It's an excellent sightseeing opportunity crossing the river Tagus to Lisbon.

By bicycle

Due to the relative proximity of Lisbon's airport to the city center, it is quite easy to cycle from the airport to the center, and could be recommended if you arrive for a cycling trip. Cycling in Portugal can be a challenge, though Lisbon offers far easier cycling than what you may find outside of the city. The further you get from Lisbon however, the easier the cycling gets. You may wish to take advantage of certain regional trains that take bicycles in a separate luggage carriage, allowing you to start your cycling some 50 or 100 kilometers outside of the city.

After leaving the airport and negotiating a roundabout, merge onto the long and straight dual-carriageway Av. Almirante Gago Coutinho (you should be able just to follow the "Centro" ("Downtown") signs.) After merging, the route to Baixa is simple and straight. This street later turns into Av. Almirante Reis, and then Rua de Palma, at the end of which you will be right in Baixa.

Cycling within the city is not easy due to traffic and the surprisingly hilly outlet of Lisbon. There are very few bike lanes in town (most of them located between Entrecampos and Telheiras) and car drivers are not used to bikes so be very careful. Good spots to cycle are along the EXPO coast, the waterfront between Cais Sodré and Belém.

Just outside of Lisbon -you can take a bike on trains or ferries- along the coast from Estoril towards the beautiful beach of Guincho, reach Sintra, Cascais or Caparica.

If you take a bicycle in public transportation beware of the following:

Metro: During working days you are not allowed to carry bicycles in the metro. On weekends, it's allowed and it's free of charge. Suburban trains: On weekends and holidays you are allowed to carry bicycles in the trains free of charge. On working days you are only allowed to bring your bicycle outside the morning and evening rush hours and you must have a special ticket for it, one for the bicycle and another for the passenger. Please check the bicycle permission hours before buying a bicycle ticket. Ferries: You are allowed with a bicycle ticket.

Bike shops in the center are rare. You can find a SportZone near Rossio or in Amoreiras shopping mall. Ask there for specialist shops, shop assistants are usually very helpful. For bike the sights and bike rentals you can always check Bike Iberia (Phone: +351 96 242 3455, [3]) located in Baixa-downtown, next to Cais Sodre and the Praca Comercio square, they are professional, friendly and very helpful on providing tours, bikes and equipment and insider's knowledge.

Get around

Lisbon's recently refurbished metro system [4] is quick and efficient. Single trip tickets within Zone 1 (which covers most of the city) cost €0.80, although you can buy a 10 trip card for €6.50. However, a more economic choice is the all-day (til 1AM) pass which costs €4.00 . The all-day pass is also valid on city buses and tram lines. A rechargeable card (Viva Viagem) is needed to travel in the Metro and Carris and costs €0.50 and it's valid for a year.

The extensive bus and electrico (street-car) network is run by Carris [5]. The best way to ride is buying a 7 Colinas card, which is also valid on the metro (subway) and electricos. A rechargeable 7 Colinas can be purchased for as little as €0.50. Note that you can charge on it only one type of ticket a day (e.g. you can't charge it with a single ticket and a day ticket at the same time, but you can use it with a day ticket and then charge a single ticket the next day). If you will be traveling around a lot, you may wish to get a multiple-day ticket. There are many sales outlets, but the easiest ones to find are the ticket booths in metro stations.

If you plan to be in Lisbon for an extended time, you can purchase an unlimited pass that covers buses, metro, and funiculars at the Carris station in Santo Amaro. It's 10 euro for the Lisboa Viva card, plus 25 euro for a one-month unlimited pass. You can also get them in week-long or two-week unlimited denominations. Bring a photo ID (passport) and cash.

Think twice before using a car in the city unless you are prepared to spend hours in traffic jams. Parking in certain areas can also be a pain. The busy traffic and narrow streets with blind corners can be overwhelming to tourists as well.

If your accommodation is in the center of the city, walking is a great alternative. Many of the attractions of the city, such as the Castelo and the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts, are within easy walking distance of the Baixa. While walking around Lisbon, if you become lost or cannot find the location you are looking for, try to locate the nearest Carris bus or tram stop. Most of these stops (not all) have a very good map of the city with your current location clearly marked on the map. All the prominent tourist sites in Lisbon are also shown along with an index at the bottom of the map. A quick consultation with one of these Carris maps should point you back in the right direction.

You may also use the funiculars and elevadores. Day passes for public transportation are also valid for those.

Lisbon is very close to ocean and that brings windy and fast-changing weather, so you'd better bring a jacket or an umbrella with you, at least in spring and autumn.

See

Instead of paying for a trip in one of the tourist trams, try line 28. It takes you by many of Lisbon's most famous sites, and although it is overrun with tourists, you still get a flavor of the locals. Ticket costs Euro 1.40 per journey and can be obtained from on-board vending machines. These machines do not accept notes so ensure you have sufficient change.

• The Gulbenkian Museum, Avenida de Berna, 45A (take the metro to Sao Sebastiao or Praca de Espanha Sations), [6]. 10AM-5:45PM - Closed Mondays. Created from the personal collection of Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian who longed to see all his treasures displayed in a museum. A nice assortment of Egyptian artifacts, along with paintings by masters such as Rembrandt, Manet, Monet, Renoir, and Cassat. The museum's gardens are worth a visit in and of themselves, as a little oasis in the middle of downtown Lisbon. Entry to the museum is free for students with ID. edit

• Castelo de São Jorge (St. George's Castle), (Walk up the hill from Alfama or take bus 37), ☎ +351 218 800 620, [7]. 9AM - 9PM (March - Oct) and 9AM-6PM (Nov-Feb). Located up the hill, with a great view over the city and the river. If you have the energy, get there by walking from downtown, going through the fantastic old neighborhood of Alfama. €5. edit

• Santa Justa's Elevator, Rua Aurea & Rua de Santa Justa, ☎ +351 (21) 361-3054. Located downtown, this elevator was designed by a follower of French engineer Gustav Eiffel and connects the downtown to the Trindade, located several meters uphill. It offers some of the best views of the city. 7 Colinas valid. edit

• Praça do Comércio, (Take the metro to Terreiro do Paço Station), [8]. This magnificent plaza, facing the river, is the beginning of Lisboa's downtown. It is also known as 'Terreiro do Paço', meaning 'Grounds of the Palace', relating to its function before the Great Earthquake of 1755. edit

• Belém, [9]. This monument-packed neighborhood is a must-see place. It features the likes of Belem Tower (entry fee 3 euros) (Torre de Belém), the Jerónimos Monastery [10], Padrão dos Descobrimentos (entry fee 2,5 euros) and the modern CCB (Belém Cultural Center, in english). CCB is holding a permanent contemporany art exhibition, from the Berardo Collection - it features works from Picasso, Dalí, Duchamp, Magritte, Andy Warhol, among others. A stroll around its many gardens enjoying the river's bright blue is also a must. In front of the former Royal Palace of Belém, now the Presidential Palace, there is a massive statue looking out to sea, representing Afonso de Albuquerque, first Viceroy of Portuguese India at the early 16th century. Housed in the former ridding school of the palace, don't miss the world's largest collection of coaches and royal vehicles at the Coach Museum [11] (Museu dos Coches). Take tram 15 to the west, which follows the coast line. edit

• Chiado, [12]. Take a stroll along the historical streets of this elegant shopping district, stopping for a cup of coffee with the statue of Fernando Pessoa, Portugal's great Modernist poet. Head uphill to Bairro Alto, for stunning views of the city and some wild partying in Lisbon's most popular nightclub district. edit

• Downtown (Baixa). This part of the city was completely rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake by the Marquis de Pombal. The planned layout, greatly different from what you will see in the more ancient neighborhoods, is a testimony to the ideas of the Enlightenment. edit

• Ponte 25 de Abril. This sister bridge of the Golden Gate in San Francisco was designed by the same architect in 1966 to connect Lisbon with the Setubal peninsula across the Tagus (Tejo) River. Formerly known as the Salazar Bridge, it was renamed after the Carnation Revolution, which on April 25, 1974 ended the dictatorship. edit

• Cristo Rei, (Catch the ferry to Cacihas from Cais do Sobre then gab Bus 101), [13]. 9AM - 6PM. Similar to the Christ statue in Rio de Janeiro, this statue stands over 100 meters tall on the opposite bank of the Tejo River from downtown Lisbon. Views from the top of the statue are breathtaking, although the elevator up will cost you 4 euros. edit

• Jardim Zoológico, Estrada De Benfiea 158-160 (Metro:Take the Blue Line to the Jardim Zooligico. Buses: A variety of buses stop here including 16, 31, 54, 58, 701 and 755), ☎ +351 (21) 7232-920, [14]. 10AM - 8PM (21st March - 30th Sept.) and 10AM - 6PM (1st Oct. - 20th March). A zoo that is fairly pricey, but has a variety of exotic animals featuring sea-lions and dolphins. €15.00. edit

• Parque das Nações, On Av. Dom Joao II (Metro: Oriente Station. Train: Gare Do Oriente Station.), ☎ +351 (21) 8919-898, [15]. Built for the 1998 World Expo, the eastern side of town (take the Metro to Oriente) is a change from downtown and has one of the world's largest aquariums (11.00 euro admission fee), among other sights. edit

• Lisbon metro, [16]. Most of the metro system is a free art gallery. You'll find art by contemporary artists inspired by the stations' surrounding area. Check the subway webpage for more details on this curiosity. The red line is the newest one and has the best pieces of art. edit

• Lisbon Botanical Garden, Rua da Escola Politecnia, 58 (Metro: Rato Sation), [17]. Daily 9AM - 8PM (Summer) 9AM - 6PM (Winter). The botanical garden of Ajuda is one of the oldest gardens in Europe and is considered the first in Portugal. After the earthquake that occurred in 1755, the homeless Portuguese royal family decided to build a new royal residence at Ajuda but also gardens around it. This 10 acre garden was laid out in from 1858-1873. edit

• Fundação Arpad Szenes / Vieira da Silva, Praça das Amoreiras, 56/58, ☎ +351 (21) 3880044/53 (fasvs@fasvs.pt, fax: 351 21 3880039), [18]. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun 10am-6pm. This museum is installed in the restored 18th-century former Royal Silk Factory. It permanent collection covers a wide time period of the works of 20th-century painters Arpad Szenes and Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, and regularly hosts exhibits by their contemporaries. Adults €2.50, students €1.25, kids under 14 free. edit

• Alfama. This neighborhood is a sign of the Muslim presence in the city, with the buildings very close to each other, and very irregular streets. Its very atmospheric and a great spot to wander around in. edit

Do

Go out at night (but not alone) to the central Bairro Alto, or 'High Neighborhood'. Just up the hill from Chiado, this is the place to go out in town. In the early evening, go to a fado-themed restaurant near the Praca Camoes, and head upwards as the evening goes on. If you're in Lisbon on the night preceding a Feriado or public holiday, you have to check this out. Tiny little streets which are empty in the daytime become crammed walkways which are difficult to get through.

One hidden gem is the Botanic Gardens, Jardim Botanico, which you can find between the Avenida da Liberdade and Bairro Alto. It was created several hundred years ago, by a King of Portugal at the time of the Discoveries. The story goes that this King wanted one of every type of plant in the world, and although that's unlikely, there is a huge collection dating back by three or four centuries which is worth checking out. Also some weird and wonderful bizarre grafted trees - the roots hang down like fingers and toes where one tree has been grafted onto another, sometimes completely different, species. And there's something quite eerie about seeing plants or huge trees from completely different climates growing next to each other in apparent harmony. There is an entrance fee of one euro eighty for adults, and concessions are available for kids, OAPS and students. A great place to take a picnic - this green oasis is completely surrounded by city but even the city sounds filter out.

Work

Members of the EU can work in Lisbon (and the whole of Portugal) without a work visa. Citizens of non-EU countries must obtain a work visa.

Buy

From Praça do Comércio (aka Terreiro do Paço) to the Restauradores, the Baixa is the old shopping district in the city. Stroll along the pedestrian Rua Augusta, with everything from tourist stores to European chain clothing stores like Zara, H&M, Campers and many others.

You can buy a Lisbon Shopping Card, which gives you discounts at major stores around the city for a period of 24 hours.

Shops are open a little later than other places in Europe, usually around 9:30AM- 10PM, and the lunch breaks can be quite long, usually from 1PM to 3PM. Most malls are open on Sundays.

Malls

While most stores are closed on Sundays, many malls are open 7 days a week. They usually open around 9:30AM and close by 11PM or midnight, although the film theaters within them usually run a late session starting after midnight.

• Centro Comercial Colombo, Av. Colegio Militar (Metro: Take the Blue Line to Calegio Militar/Luz Station), ☎ +351 (21) 771 36 36, [19]. 9AM - Midnight. One of the largest malls in Europe, this shopping and leisure complex also houses dozens of restaurants, a bowling alley, health club, multiplex cinema, funfair with rides including a roller coaster, and a go-cart track. edit

• Armazéns do Chiado, Rua do Carmo 2 (Metro: Baixa-Chiado Station), [20]. A massive mall that draws a young hip crowd shopping for books, CDs, and DVD. Fantastic city views from the top floor restaurants and cafes. edit

• Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama, (Metro: Oreinte Station), [21]. A large mall and theme park in the Pargue Expo. edit

• Centro Comercial Amoreiras, Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco (Metro: Marquês de Pombal Station), [22]. The city's oldest mall in eye-catching post-modern towers housing international chains. edit

• El Corte Inglés, Av. António Augusto Aguiar, 413 (Metro: Sao Sebastiao Station), [23]. Big department store with cinema and supermarket, a bit pricey but with good quality items. edit

Grocery Stores

Grocery stores are closed on Sundays, after 1PM, except those smaller than 2000m2. However, from November 1st to December 31st, Grocery stores are allowed to remain open all day through Sundays.

Other Shopping

• Feira da Ladra, Campo de Santa clara (Take Tram 28). 6AM-5PM Tuesday and Saturday. A lively out door market offering both new and used products. Markets of this type have pleased bargain hunters since the 12th century in Lisbon and the Feira da Ladra name has been around since the 17th century. edit

• Mercado da Ribeira, Avenida 24 de Julho (Cais do Sodré). 7AM-1PM except Sunday. A massive farmers market open in the mornings. This is a great place to buy snacks for the day while traveling on a budget. Pick up nuts, fruit, veggies, cheese, bread or meat or delight your travel mate with some beautiful flowers. edit

Eat

Eating out is deliciously bewildering in Lisbon and with some of the best value cafes and restaurants in Europe, it's a great way to sample a smorgasboard of Portugese treats.

The area of Chiado offers Portuguese traditional cuisine at its finest, while the Baixa area caters to the tourists, all laminated menus and meal deals – with the exception of the seafood strip of Rua de Santos de Antão (also home to the best greasy spit-roasted chicken this side of Louisiana).

For a familiar taste, head to Doca de Santo Amaro and Parque das Nações where chain eateries abound. Doca de Jardim de Tabaco has scooped all the culinary and clubbing kudos right now, while eating in well-to-do Lapa means that you're paying a high price for quality dishes. Alfama is prime tour group territory, while Bairro Alto features traditional Portugese restaurants all scattered abundantly through its quirky narrow streets. Make sure that you dine at a restaurant that plays traditional fado music. Beware that you'll pay more than in normal restaurants, and the food and drink quality may not be up to the price, you're paying for the music experience.

Portuguese dining rituals tend to follow the Mediterranean siesta body clock. Most restaurants are very small, family run and generally cheap. Almost everyone has a sheet on the door with the "pratos do dia" (dishes of the day) written on. These are usually cheaper and fresher, and unless you're looking for something specific, they're the right choice. During the dinner the waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes: as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it!).

Try the magnificent pastéis de nata at any pastelaria or even better, the Pastéis de Belém next to the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém. Have them warm and profusely showered in cinnamon. These are absolutely a must eat and you can't possibly regret it.

Budget

At Café Buenos Aires, Calçada Escadinhas do Duque No. 31, you can find a good and selected combination of cheap and mid range dishes. The owners are very friendly and speak English, as well as Portuguese and Spanish.

Mid-range

Alfama

• Pois Cafe, Rua S. João da Praça N. 95 (on the side street of the fantastic cathedral Sé), ☎ +351 (21) 886-2497. It's a place to relax, read a book, drink a coffee and plan you way around Lisbon edit

Downtown

• Néctar WineBar, R. dos Douradores, 33, ☎ 912633368 (geral@nectar-winebar.com), [24]. Néctar WineBar is a place dedicated to the promotion of Portugal's wine and gastronomic culture. The wine list comprises - in its vast majority - a selection of Portuguese wines which best represent the country. Wine can be bought by the glass, and it is served at the appropriate temperatures and in suitable glasses. Savory dishes -served in portions for 2 - easily replace a main course meal, and provide a selection of the best Portuguese gastronomy. To complete the meal, you can taste homemade-style desserts with suggested sweet wines. A modern and cosy atmosphere, located in one of Lisbon’s historic areas – downtown, the Baixa Pombalina. €25-35. edit

Docas

• Arroz Maria, Doca de Sto Amaro, ☎ +351 (21) 395-4677. Fabulous seafood with a great view of the Tejo river and the Ponte de 25 Abril. Excellent service and really fresh food. Don't miss the tamboril (monkfish) with the tomato and asparagus sauce. Really worth the effort to get there, the Docas area is fairly newly developed, and the railway line makes it hard to find a way across the main road, but with determination it's a great spot to go to. It's one of a number of restaurants of varying types along this stretch of the quayside, but it stands out for quality and value. Check it out before it gets 'trendy'. €25 (two courses with wine and port). edit

Bairro Alto

• Sul, Rua do Norte 13, ☎ +351 21 346 24 49. Delicious Mediterranean and South American food. Good wine and drinks list. Helpful staff will translate the menu, which is written on the blackboard, and happily cater for vegetarians. Gets packed in the evenings so bookings recommended if you're eating from 9PM onwards. €30 (''2 courses with wine and cocktail''). edit

• Pap'Açorda, Rua da Atalaia, 57-59, ☎ +352 21 346 4811. Yet another co-owner of Bico do Sapato (there are four) is Fernando Fernandes. A restaurateur with his finger firmly on Lisbon's pulse, he also owns this place, opened in 1981 and it has been full ever since. Unlike its fabulous half-sister, Pap'Açorda offers a modest check, and it reverses the ratio of great food vs. show-off quotient. This is all about real. If you want to try (almost) unreconstructed Portuguese dishes, here's your place—and it's handily located in this month's up-and-coming-back neighborhood, beautiful Bairro Alto. Since the restaurant is named after Açorda Real, a lobster and shrimp dish, it stands to reason that this is a good thing to order. edit

• Brasuca, Rua Joao Pereira da Rosa 7, ☎ +351 (21) 322-07 40. Great Brazilian food served by friendly staff. edit

• Lisboa à Noite. Its a restaurant with a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes very appreciated by the tourists. You have friendly environment, great service and make sure you try the appetizers. edit

• Ali a Papa, Rua da Atalaia 95, ☎ +351 (21) 347-4143, [25]. Couscous heaven in a tiny and friendly room. Highly recommended, and good veggie options too. €20 (two courses with house wine). edit

• Calcutá, Rua da Atalaia 28, ☎ +351 (21) 346 -8165, [26]. Best Indian food. Ask for the shoot drinks! €25 (two courses with house wine). edit

Santos (10 minutes from downtown)

• A Confraria, Rua das Janelas Verdes, 32, 1200-691 Lisboa (Near Ancient Art Museum), ☎ +351 213 962 435, [27]. Located on the ground floor of the York House Lisbon (a 17th century convent) with a view over the city garden terrace, classic decoration. Open every day for lunch and dinner. Seasonal menu based on Portuguese cuisine with an inpired twist of the chef! Delicious... try it! edit

Splurge

• Eleven, Rua Marquês da Fronteira, ☎ +351 (21) 386-211, [28]. If you really feel like splurging, this is the place. The restaurant was recently awarded a Michelin Star, although the basis on which the award was made are disputable. edit

• Il Gatoparo, Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco, 24 (3rd Floor of the Dom Pedro Palace hotel). Lunch: 12:20PM - 3:30PM, Dinner: 7:30PM-11:30PM. An elegant restaurant serving fashionable gourmet Italian with a big price tag. edit

• Panorama, Rua Latino Coelho 1, ☎ +351 (21) 312-0000. Superb views over Lisbon and food with a good quality/price ratio. edit

Drink

Lisbon is known for its lively night. For going out, stroll around the old neighborhood of Bairro Alto ('high neighborhood') for an after-dinner caipirinha or ginjinha and people-watching. It's located on the top of one of the hills and you can get there by subway (Baixa/Chiado station) or by taking the marvelous funicular from the Restauradores plaza. Its small streets, full of people, are packed with high variety of bars. Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest, but the Bairro is rocking every night until dawn.

Alcântara, Santos, Parque das Nações, and the castle area are all neighborhoods with a thriving nightlife. The whole area near the river/Atlantic, known as the docas, is a huge hub for nightlife, as Lisbon has never lost its ties to the sea.

• Garrafeira Alfaia, Rua Diário de Notícias 125, ☎ +351 (21) 343-30 79 (garrafeira.alfaia@clix.pt). Nice wine bar with an impressive selection of good wines and appetizers. Good place to spend the late afternoon, before going out to dinner. edit

• Chafariz do Vinho, Rua da Mae d'Agua., ☎ 21 342 20 79. Perfect place to linger over a glass of wine at this wine bar that is under the arches of the city's former acquaducts. With a great selection of appetizers that are matched perfectly with the wine, it's a pleasant way to spend an evening. edit

• Gambrinus, Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, ☎ 21 342 14 66. Highly recognized in Lisbon as something of an institution, it attracts an eclectic crowd where the appeal is food that is served at all hours and a great selection of beers, wines and spirits. edit

• Ritz Bar, Four Seasons Hotel, Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88, ☎ 21 381 14 00. Designed by Pierre Yves-Rochon, you'll enjoy deep, sumptous sofas and an impressive collection of contemporary art displayed on the walls. And with decorated bartender Paulo Costa serving you drinks, its a great place to peruse a crowd of sophisticated clientele. edit

Sleep

Apartments

• EUROPAPART, (info@europapart.eu)

Contact

Private international call centers and public telephone booths are common throughout Lisbon. Be warned, however, public phones can be less generous than slot machines: many times they'll swallow your change and give you no credit. You're better off purchasing a Portugal Telecom pre-paid card you can insert into the phone, or even a discount calling card which connects you via a toll-free number. These can be purchased from street kiosks and convenience stores. Most payphones also allow you to pay by credit card, although support for this feature is somewhat expensive.

Internet cafes are also abundant in the Rossio and Restauradores districts as well as in the Bairro Alto (opening late there). Expect to pay between €2 - €3 per hour.

Stay safe

Crime

According to the Eurostat, overall crime rates and robbery crime rates in particular are on the rise in Portugal. Some areas on the outskirts of Lisbon are becoming more dangerous, but it is unlikely the average tourist will visit these areas. The most common crime against tourists is pickpocketing and theft from rental cars or on public transport. There are some episodes of violent crimes (i.e. robberies) and some drug related crimes in places like Bairro Alto and Santos, especially at night. Chances are you'll be approached at least a few times by certain types offering 'hash' or 'chocolate'. Many of the people selling hash, cocaine, or marijuana are actually not offering that at all but rather a mixture of herbs they try to pass off to you as a drug. Oregano, or different types of tea can look similar to marijuana and a mixture of ginger and other ingredients are used to make an ºuvaº or an egg of what appears to be hashish. Cocaine is also occasionally offered by these people, but it is almost certain you will be buying a bag of baking soda if you choose to purchase. Don't let this completely discourage you but just remember that the cops in Lisbon largely do not care about the non-violent drug trade and trafficking. If possible go in a group, be patient, take your time and examine the product well, and you should be alright. Remember its OK to walk away from someone trying to sell you a false or bad product. It's also encouraged to be wary of the Intendente-Martim Moniz area. Intendente is a well known area for prostitution, and even though it has changed in the past couple of years (there's always police nearby, whereas before you couldn't say the same), it's still a problematic area. Martim Moniz is also notorious for the asian groups that live and work there. This isn't the problem in itself, but at night the area occupied by shifty crowds that more often that not will cause some trouble.

Criminals in Lisbon are very quick and witty and think of scams about how to get money from you (i.e. they canºt exchange their money and will pay you back in a few hours). Just remember that Lisbon is a big city and is very different from the rest of Portugal. Young tourists should be especially advised as they will likely be approached by many people especially near the Chiado Plaza. A firm 'no thank-you' or "não, obrigado", if you're a male; "não, obrigada", if you're female should be enough to deter them. Also be careful with bank machines in the city center. Groups of gypsies or adolescents occasionally stay close to the multibanco and wait until you have entered your pin. They then force you away from the machine and withdraw the maximum amount from the machine (500 or 600€). Try to withdraw money earlier in the day and try to avoid some of the train stations late at night, especially Cais do Sodre station.

Walking and Driving

Lisbon has one of the highest rates of car accidents on the European Union, so be extra careful when crossing the streets. Drivers don't usually respect pedestrian crossings unless there there is a red light for them to stop. Driving can be tricky without a GPS system as there is a poor signalization in the streets. Drivers overall are not too aggressive compared to other European capitals, although this is disputed by (mostly Spanish) tourists.

In case of Emergency

Ambulance, fire brigade, police: call 112.

Same number is used with both land line and mobile phone. The number works on any mobile phone, whether it is keylocked or not and with or without SIM card.

Cope

Get out

• Mafra— A charming town with a monastery.
• Ericeira— A gorgeous seaside resort near Mafra, well-known to surfers worldwide.
• Sintra is a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site town 30 minutes by car/train from Lisbon.
• Cascais— A town on the bay of the same name,on the Estoril coast.
• Praia das Maçãs is a small and surprisingly calm seaside resort about 30km to the west of Lisbon,near the towns of Colares & Sintra.

South of Lisbon(south of the Tagus river/rio Tejo):

• Almada, a city connected to/from Lisbon via ferry boats @ Cacilhas and connected by train @ Pragal and roadway via 25 Abril bridge/ponte 25 de Abril.

Monument of Christ-King(Cristo-Rei)is located in Pragal, Almada.

• Setúbal— Capital of the district, and starting point for visits to Arrabida mountain, Troia, and the Sado river. Dolphins can be spotted on the bay.
• Palmela— A hill town with a castle, with amazing views, near the city of Setúbal.
• Sesimbra— A fisherman's village near the Arrábida mountain, good for scuba diving and fresh seafood, and starting point to visit the Espichel cape and sancturary.
• Azeitão,near Setubal, some 30km South of Lisbon, this small region consists of a series of lovely villages, of which Vila Nogueira de Azeitão and Vila Fresca de Azeitão are the most well known. Azeitão stands between the Arrábida Nature Park and the coast. In the park you'll meet the last remains of the original Mediterranean flora. Also, there is the famous Convent of Arrábida to visit and the stunning views from its hills and at its peak.
• Vila Nogueira de Azeitão— Visit the beautiful Winery and palace "Quinta da Bacalhoa". Also check out the grand estate and winery of "José Maria da Fonseca". Igreja de São Lorenço with hand painted tile panels, gilded wood chapels and a Lucca Della Robbia medallion. Convent of S. Domingos.
• Tróia— A lovely peninsula gifted with kms of wild unexplored beaches, and with a tourist resort being developed on one of its edges.

Credits to Wikitravel. Based on work by Peter Fitzgerald, beatriz, Michal Stankoviansky, benjamin hoppe, Børge Skråmestø, Stefan Ertmann and Vintage Hostel, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.

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