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Short Break in Glasgow - Best tourist advice

Wednesday, March 11, 2009 / by Agence 2000 /

Glasgow [1] is the largest city in Scotland, and the third largest in the United Kingdom with a population of about 980,000 in the city itself, or over 1.8 million if the surrounding towns of the Clydeside conurbation are taken into account. Located at the west end of Scotland's Central Belt on the banks of the River Clyde, Glasgow's historical importance as Scotland's main industrial centre has challenged by decades of change and various regeneration efforts.

In recent years, however, Glasgow has been awarded the European titles of City of Culture (1990), City of Architecture and Design (1999) and Capital of Sport (2003). In 2008, Glasgow became the 2nd Scottish city to join the UNESCO Creative Cities initiative when it was named as a UNESCO City of Music (joining Bologna and Seville). In preparing its bid, Glasgow counted an average of 130 music events a week ranging from pop and rock to Celtic music and opera. The city has transformed itself from being the once mighty powerhouse of industrial Britain to a centre for commerce, tourism, and culture. Glasgow will be the host city for the Commonwealth Games in 2014.

Visitors will find a revitalised city centre, the best shopping outside London without a doubt, excellent parks and museums (most of which are free), and easy access to the Highlands and Islands.

Understand

The speed of the conversation tends to be quite quick in Glasgow. If necessary, ask people to repeat (even slowly!) what they are saying, Glaswegians are generally very friendly and able to communicate in much more formal English than what is commonly used if it is required. Standing on a city centre street corner with a map in the daytime is usually a cue for passing Glaswegians to offer help in finding your way.

Dialect

As with all areas of Scotland, regional dialects are present in Glasgow. The Glasgow "patter" or "banter", as it's known, has evolved over the history of the city. As each wave of migration takes place, new words and phrases are added to the dialect. There is a strong Celtic language connection due to the Lowland Scots, Highland Gaelic and Irish Gaelic influences.

Some phrases

  • "Wean" (pronouced "wane") - child (Derived from wee-one, meaning small one)
  • "Wee" - small
  • "Aye" - yes
  • "dinae" or don't *This is not a Glasgow word, its an east coast thing*
  • "Bam" or "bampot" or "bamstick" - an impolite term for a silly or annoying person
  • "Eejit" - an impolite term for a person who has done an incredibly stupid thing
  • "Tumshie" - a silly person
  • "Pure (brilliant)" - Very
  • "Minging" - bad smelling or bad tasting; similarly a "minger" refers to an ugly person. Can also be used to denote drunkenness; "Ah wis well mingin' on Friday."
  • "Haw" - roughly equivalent to "Hey" and used to attract someone's attention
  • "(to give) pelters" - to humiliate someone
  • "Ned" - Allegedly, this stands for "non-educated delinquent", which sums it up nicely. Neds can be spotted often sporting tracksuits, drinking cheap alcohol and wearing "bling" jewellery, as well as bright white trainers or sneakers and a baseball cap, usually from the brand Burberry. Most neds are harmless but some are aggressive, particularly after drinking some "Buckie".
  • "Buckie" - Real name is Buckfast, a "tonic wine" (this indicates its fortified alcohol content and not any medicinal value.) It is relatively cheap and purple in colour.
  • "Glaikit" - If someone is glaikit, they look (or are) oblivious, stupid and out of it.
  • "Gallus" - notably brave, or even cocky
  • "Besom" - a cheeky or 'bold' woman.
  • "Manky" - unclean, filthy
  • "Baltic" - Really cold weather
  • "Mental" - Tough and crazy, as in "Watch out, he's pure mental, by the way"
  • "Pished" - drunk or intoxicated.

Glasgow slang is also peppered with various more or less meaningless phrases such as 'by the way', 'man' or 'dead' (very, as an adjective) that can give the answers to simple questions an almost baroque complexity. So "Did you enjoy the concert last night?" might be answered "Aye it was pure dead brilliant man" which means, essentially, "Yes, it was good".

Get in

By plane

Glasgow is served by two main airports close to the city:

  • Glasgow International Airport [2] (GLA), located 14km west of the centre of Glasgow near the towns of Paisley and Renfrew, is the principal airport for domestic flights and also has transatlantic links to Canada and the USA (Newark and Philadelphia). It also has a daily flight to Dubai. Both British Airways and BMI operate frequent shuttle flights to Glasgow Airport throughout the day to and from London Heathrow. If you are flying into the UK via Heathrow, you will usually connect into Glasgow via one of these airlines. EasyJet flies from Luton, Stansted and Gatwick. There's a frequent shuttle bus Arriva 500 from outside the terminal building to the city centre, dropping off near both main railway stations (£3.95 single, £6.30 return; the journey takes about 20 minutes). Slightly less frequent, but cheaper are the First 747 and 757. Between them these buses run every 15 minutes most of the day, but leave at different bus stops. A particular benefit of these services is that First run most of the bus services in the City and many in the surroundings, and you can get an all-day ticket (£3.20) that will take you anywhere in Glasgow. In addition to this, a "railbus" service operates via Paisley Gilmour Street railway station to the airport; simply get on a Paisley bound train at Glasgow Central Station, alight at Paisley Gilmour Street Station (20 min journey), and a connecting bus will take you the 30 minute journey to the terminal. One ticket (available at the railway station for about £2.50 single, £5 return) will be valid for both legs of the journey.
  • Glasgow Prestwick International Airport [3] (PIK), about 50 km south west of Glasgow on the Ayrshire coast, is the city's secondary airport and is the Scottish base for Ryanair (see Discount airlines in Europe) and several other low cost carriers, as well as some holiday charter operators. The airport has its own railway station, with two trains per hour to Glasgow Central (show your flight paperwork to get a half price ticket; the journey takes around 45 minutes). All trains to Ayr and Stranraer call at the airport. The X77 bus also runs from Buchanan Bus Station to the airport throughout the day, and crucially covers the times (early morning and late evening) when the trains are not running.

By train

Trains from the south of Scotland, and all long distance services from England arrive at Central Station (officially known as Glasgow Central), while trains from Edinburgh and anywhere north of Glasgow arrive at Queen Street Station. There are four "shuttle" trains per hour between Edinburgh and Queen Street during the day; the journey takes 50 minutes, and a cheap day return costs around £9.50. There is also a roughly hourly service from Edinburgh to Central which runs via South Lanarkshire, however it is considerably slower. Both Central and Queen Street stations have left luggage lockers. The stations are an easy ten minute walk apart, or there's a frequent shuttle bus between them, which is free if you are holding a through railway ticket.

Most trains within Scotland and the sleeper services from London are run by First ScotRail [4]. Daytime direct services from London are run by Virgin Trains [5] and National Express East Coast [6]. Virgin operate nine direct services from London Euston; two of these crack expresses which can complete the 400 mile journey in 4 hours 25 minutes, as well as direct services from Manchester and Birmingham. National Express operate 6 direct services a day from London King's Cross via Edinburgh, but at a much slower time of 5 hours 30 minutes. Rail fares from London to Glasgow vary enormously - the best prices are obtained by booking an advance purchase ticket online at the train operator's website, and can run as low as £14 one way, rising to around £102 for an off-peak return. Full fare tickets bought on the day of travel are very expensive, and can run to over £200 return if travelling at the peak periods.

First Transpennine Express [7] operate a direct service to Glasgow from Manchester Airport. CrossCountry [8] run trains from the South West of England to Glasgow which runs via Birmingham New Street which connects with many more services into key towns throughout the U.K.

There is also an overnight train service - the Caledonian Sleeper runs every night from London Euston except Saturdays, and the journey takes approximately 8 hours. Bear in mind that if you are travelling alone you may have to share the sleeping compartment with a stranger of the same sex. Tickets can be booked in the usual manner at any main line railway station in Britain, and the cost of a return journey to Glasgow from London varies from around £100 for two one-way "Advance" tickets rising to the full open return fare of £165. You can also travel for around £23 one-way in a seated carriage or £95 return (full fare). BritRail passes can be used to reserve tickets on the Sleeper trains.

However, heavily discounted one-way tickets on the Caledonian Sleeper known as "Bargain Berths" are available for £19, £29, £39 or £49 depending on how early you book, but confusingly these cannot be bought from a railway station in the normal way - they can only be purchased from the First ScotRail website and you will be emailed an e-ticket (similar to an airline) which you must print out and show to the conductor at the platform before getting on the train.

By car

The main approaches to Glasgow are:

  • from England on the M74 motorway; Glasgow is about 150 km north of the border
  • from Edinburgh (east) or Glasgow Airport (west) on the M8 motorway
  • from Stirling and all points north and east on the M80 motorway
  • from the West Highlands on the A82 dual carriageway

All routes converge on the M8, which carves through the city centre. Glasgow has no credible park-and-ride system, but some of the subway and suburban railway stations do have small car parks. There are several expensive multi-storey car parks near the motorway in the city centre. The NCP ones are the most expensive, while those run by the city council are a lot cheaper. Those run by the city council are Concert Square (near the Royal Concert Hall), Cambridge Street (just off the pedestrianised area of Sauchiehall Street) and Charing Cross.

There is also the Shields Road Park and Ride site [9] available, which services the city centre.

In general however, driving in Glasgow's central area should be avoided if you are not absolutely sure of where you are going, with its maze of one way systems, bus lanes and pedestrian precincts. Glaswegians are not the most patient drivers in the world, and they particularly dislike hesitancy (taxi drivers being the worst culprits). Parking restrictions are strictly enforced, and vehicles parked illegally or in an obstructive manner will be towed away and the owner of the vehicle will be liable for a £150 release charge to recover it.

By bus

Long-distance bus services [10] arrive at Buchanan Bus Station (in the city centre, close to Buchanan Street Underground /Queen Street train stations). The main operator is Scottish Citylink [11], but Stagecoach also runs a budget inter-city bus service called Megabus [12]. Somewhat confusingly, however, the two operators often combine and merge services, so don't be surprised if you are put on a Citylink bus when you hold a Megabus reservation and vice versa.

By boat

Sunset over Kingston Bridge
Sunset over Kingston Bridge

For travellers arriving from outside Scotland, the nearest ferry ports are Troon (near Prestwick Airport), for ferries from Larne in Northern Ireland, or Rosyth (near Edinburgh), for ferries from Zeebrugge in Belgium. Each is about an hour's drive from Glasgow. Aberdeen and Newcastle, each around two hours' drive away, are served by ferries from Norway.

Get around

River Clyde looking West towards SECC
River Clyde looking West towards SECC

Although Greater Glasgow sprawls out for nearly 80 square miles, the central area of the city is compact and can be easily negotiated by foot. The city's downtown (known as "The Toon" to locals) is laid out on an American-style grid plan which is bounded by the M8 motorway to the north and west, High Street to the east, and the River Clyde to the south.

The main arteries of Central Glasgow are Argyle Street and Sauchiehall Street which both run on an east-west axis. They are linked by Buchanan Street which runs north-south. Together, these three streets form the so-called "Golden Z" shopping thoroughfare. Argyle Street is dominated by the glass walled bridge (known as Heilanman's Umbrella) of Central Station which is the city's largest railway terminal. Exiting the station, and heading eastwards along Gordon Street and continuing onwards into Royal Exchange Square, dominated with the Doric Gallery of Modern Art. At this point you will have entered the Merchant City area - the historic centre of Glasgow.

Heading northward along Queen Street you will enter George Square, which is dominated by the city's spectacular City Chambers, the centre of Glasgow's local government. On the north side of the square is Queen Street Railway Station, on the east side is the start of the Strathclyde University Campus. The Square itself is populated by several statues of civic leaders and famous figures from history, and is often used for outdoor events.

Continuing southwards on Buchanan Street, you encounter St Vincent Street which intersects the south side of George Square. Further south leads to several major shopping areas and department stores. Buchanan Street ends at the major east west street, Argyle Street.

Argyle Street starts on the west side of the M8 motorway, and passes under the Kingston Bridge next to Anderston railway station heading east. Argyle Street also passes the south entrance of Glasgow Central railway station and actually passes under the railway lines before joining Buchanan Street. Continuing eastwards leads to St Enoch Square and the St Enoch shopping centre as well as lots of major shops. Argyle Street ends after a short section of pedestrianised street and becomes the Trongate.

The Trongate is the site of the Trongate Theatre, just before the junction of the Trongate, A8 Saltmarket (north/south), Gallowgate and London Road (east/west). This junction is known as Glasgow Cross and marks the original medieval centre of the city. It is dominated by the clock tower of the original City Chambers, and the small hexagonal building known as the Tolbooth. High Street runs directly north from Glasgow Cross and is the main artery of Old Glasgow, leading up to the Cathedral of Saint Mungo (or Glasgow Cathedral), and the Necropolis cemetery.

Further east from the Cross along the Gallowgate and London Road is the famous Barras market area and Barrowland Ballroom, leading to the areas of Calton, Bridgeton, Dalmarnock and Parkhead (home of Celtic Football team). Turning south onto the A8 Saltmarket leads to the City Mortuary, High Court and the eastern entrance of Glasgow Green park before crossing the Crown Street bridge into the Gorbals.

To the west of the city centre is the ever popular and dynamic Glasgow West End. This area is a truly happening part of town. With amazing architecture and tree lined streets this part of Glasgow thrives all year. It has a high population of students, with a number of universities close by. From the city centre, it is best to travel west along Great Western Road (A82) and turn left onto Byres Road—this is the heart of the West End (parking in this area can be difficult—take a taxi or public transport). While there, be sure to pay a visit to the very unique Ashton Lane just off Byres Road, once home to artisan workshops but now to somewhat expensive bars. This part of the city is also the gateway to the amazing West of Scotland, since Great Western Road continues as the A82 through the West Highlands to Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, Fort William, Loch Ness and finally Inverness.

Strathclyde Partnership for Transport [13] (SPT) is the agency responsible for the local public transport network, which it describes as one of the most integrated and developed in the UK - however they mean by British standards, not European standards. Nevertheless, Glasgow's public transport system is one of the most extensive in the UK outside of London.

By Subway

Image:Glasgow-Subway-Map.png

  • Glasgow's underground metro system (offically known as the Subway) [14] runs in a double circle around the Glasgow city centre and some inner suburbs. Contrary to what tourist guidebooks would have you believe, locals don't call it the "Clockwork Orange" - that is a fantasy of the London media - and most will refer to it simply as "the Subway". The system serves the city centre, the West End (around Glasgow University) and Ibrox Stadium. There are interchanges with surface trains at Buchanan Street/Queen Street and Partick stations. 6:30AM-9:30PM (Sunday 10:00AM-6:00PM). The cost is £1.20 flat fare, or £3.50 for unlimited daily use after 9:30AM or all day at the weekend. No bikes.

By train

Suburban trains [15] radiate from Central and Queen Street stations to the suburbs and surrounding towns. The network is the largest in the UK outside of London, although there are only two trains per hour on some routes; others are much more frequent. Bikes go free, although many trains have no bike spaces. Daily season tickets are available, which can give you complete freedom of the network, or just in and around the city centre and inner suburbs.

By bus

Buses go everywhere. First Glasgow [16] is the main operator. There's a bus at least every ten minutes on main routes during the day, making it easy to get into the centre of town, though getting out to a specific destination isn't so easy. However, services on many routes are much less frequent in the evening. In the city centre, buses won't necessarily stop at every stop on their route, so check the sign at the stop. Stops are clearly marked with the services that stop there.

You must have the right change on buses, as for safety reasons the driver has no access to cash - you put your money in a slot which checks the amount and deposits it in a storage box.

By taxi

Like all British cities, you have two options - firstly the traditional London-style black cabs which can be hailed from the side of the road - look out for the yellow "Taxi" sign being illuminated. The fleet is operated by Glasgow Taxis [17], and can also be ordered by telephone (+44 141 429 7070). There are taxi ranks outside Central and Queen Street railway stations, adjacent to George Square and along the southern end of Queen Street itself. For a journey from say the centre of town to the West End expect to pay around £5-£6, from the city centre out to the suburbs around £10-£12. Be aware that some drivers will refuse to take you outside the city boundary - although some will on negotiation.

Your second option is by private hire or minicab. Unlike the black cabs these cannot be hailed - you must book by telephone. There is a myriad of private hire operators which are cheaper than black cabs - their phone numbers are clearly displayed on the back of the vehicles. Never be tempted to use unlicenced private taxis - who can sometimes be seen touting for business outside nightclubs near closing time and near legitimate taxi ranks. Always look for the yellow Glasgow City Council licencing plate attached to the rear bumper of the vehicle if unsure.

By foot

The centre of Glasgow is very pedestrian friendly with major shopping streets given over to foot traffic. As you move out of the city centre all areas have proper pavements, and most major junctions have pedestrian crossings. The River Clyde also has several foot bridge crossings. The main difficulty with walking out of the centre of town is finding where the crossings over / under the M8 are. Heading west, some roads appear to go over Charing X only for the pavement to disappear. Heading North, the underpasses at Cowcaddens can sometimes feel unwelcoming.

Glasgow walking directions [18] can be planned online with the walkit.com [19] walking route planner.

Ticketing and Fares

SPT [20] offers a number of different daily rail travel tickets aimed at the visitor, both usable after 9am on weekdays, and all day on weekends.

  • The Discovery ticket allows unlimited travel on the Subway only at off-peak times during the week or all day on a Saturday or Sunday, and costs £2.50 (adult).
  • The Roundabout ticket gives complete freedom of the Subway and the suburban rail network within the Greater Glasgow area which includes the city boundary and most of the surrounding towns.
  • Alternatively the Day Tripper ticket covers the entire Strathclyde rail network, which extends as far south as Girvan in Ayrshire, some 55 miles south of Glasgow, and Ardlui at the northern tip of Loch Lomond some 40 miles north. It has the added advantage of also being accepted by most bus operators in the Strathclyde region and on the Kilcreggan and Renfrew ferries. Two versions are available for 1 adult and up to 2 children (£8) or 2 adults and up to 4 children (£14.50).
  • If you are in town for a week or more then SPT's ZoneCard might be useful. It can be used on suburban trains, buses, and the underground and has no off-peak restrictions. Prices vary depending on how long you want it for (1 week to 1 year) and how many "zones" you want it to cover.
  • Specific to the bus service only, First offers a series of daily and weekly tickets which give complete freedom of the bus network within Greater Glasgow - these range from daily off-peak tickets ("FirstDay") to weekly versions ("FirstWeek"). Note that some of these tickets are not vaild for certain destinations outside the city council boundary - notably the Braehead shopping complex and the airport.

"PlanaJourney" [21] is a free integrated public transport journey planner that includes Glasgow and covers much of the Scottish, Northern Ireland and UK public transport network. It includes bus, rail, Glasgow underground, Scottish ferries and flights. It can assist with planning journeys into and out of Glasgow from anywhere in the Glasgow area or more widely from anywhere in the UK. Outside of Scotland and Northern Ireland the bus information is limited.

See

Architecture

As befits a city that was at its richest through the 19th century and at the beginning of the 20th, the centre of Glasgow has a fine legacy of Victorian and Edwardian buildings with their lavish interiors and spectacular carved stonework. Outside of the central area the main streets are lined with the legendary tenements - the city's trademark 2 or 3 story residential buildings built from red or blonde sandstone which positively glow during the summer. The decline of Glasgow's economy during the mid to late 20th Century led to the mass construction of high-rise tower blocks and concrete housing estates during the 1960's and 1970s. The dramatic and striking Red Road Flats form the tallest residential property in Europe. Many 1970s office buildings in the centre have been cleared away by state-of-the-art glass structures as Glasgow's burgeoning financial services industry continues to grow.

Glasgow was also the home of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, one of the "Glasgow Four," a group of leading proponents of art nouveau architecture. Indeed, during his lifetime, Mackintosh was probably better regarded abroad than he was in his native Glasgow, even apparently inspiring Frank Lloyd Wright. However, he was recently resurrected as one of the cities most beloved sons. You will notice, along with quite a few of his buildings to see in the city, including his magnum opus, the Glasgow School of Art, many other knock-offs and impersonations exist. However, despite the 'cult' of Mackintosh, Glasgow produced many other fine architects, the best known of whom is probably Alexander 'Greek' Thomson.

The following list is a selection of significant buildings in Glasgow.

Clyde Auditorium
Clyde Auditorium
  • The Clyde Auditorium, (train: Exhibition Centre), [22]. Affectionately known by Glaswegians as the Armadillo, is a stunning building which forms part of the Scottish Exhibition and Conference Centre.
  • The imposing City Chambers [23] (train: Glasgow Queen Street) in George Square was built in 1888 in Italian Renaissance style and is the headqurters of Glasgow City Council. Tours of the building are available daily, and visitors can see the magnificent marble staircases, lobbies, see the debating chamber and the lavish banqueting hall.
  • Glasgow Cathedral is a fine example of Gothic architecture dating from medieval times and built on a site first consecrated in 397 AD.
  • Glasgow School of Art, Renfrew Street (subway: Cowcaddens) [24]. Seen as one of Charles Rennie Mackintosh's finest buildings and is one of Britain's pre-eminent schools of art, design and architecture. Guided tours of the building are available (you must book in advance), or if you want to create your own art in the building, you can enroll for evening classes or the summer school.
  • Glasgow University, University Avenue (subway: Hillhead), [25]. Contains the Hunterian Museum and Art Gallery, including a reconstruction of Mackintosh's house. The exterior is fine in its own right; the current main University building is of the neo-gothic and dates from 1870, although the University as an institution was founded in 1451. The front of the building commands views over Kelvingrove Park and the western fringes of the city.
  • The House for an Art Lover, Bellahouston Park (train: Dumbreck or subway: Ibrox), [26]. Built in the 1990s to Mackintosh's original 1901 entry for a design competition. Opening times vary; cost is £3.50.
  • Scotland Street School, 225 Scotland St (subway: Shields Road), [27]. Charles Rennie Mackintosh's last major building - thoughtfully designed, with an excellent museum covering both Mackintosh and the changing faces of schools. Open daily. Free.
  • Holmwood House, [28]. Now run by the National Trust, and currently in the process of being renovated, Holmwood House is one of the best examples of the work of Glasgow's other great architect: Alexander 'Greek' Thomson. It is in Cathcart, in the South Side of the City, and is open throughout the Summer.

If this just whets your appetite for information on Glasgow's architecture, try and get hold of a copy of Central Glasgow: An Illustrated Architectural Guide, by Charles McKean and others. There are various editions (ISBN:1873190220, ISBN:1851582002, ISBN:1851582010).

Museums and art galleries

The Victorians also left Glasgow with a wonderful legacy of museums and art galleries, which the city has dutifully built upon. The following list is only a selection. The city council alone runs 13 museums and galleries. Visitors should be aware that most of the galleries appear to be closed on Sundays, and that - to the understandable annoyance of many visitors to Glasgow - most of the museums shut their doors at 5:00 PM.

  • Burrell Collection, Pollok Country Park (train: Pollokshaws West, then walk through Pollok Park), tel 287-2550.[29] This is a collection of over 9,000 artworks gifted to the city of Glasgow by Sir William Burrell and housed in a purpose-built museum in the Pollok Estate in the south of the city. Open M-Th,Sa 10:00AM-5:00PM; F,Su 11:00AM-5:00PM. Free.
  • Gallery of Modern Art[30] On Queen Street in the City Centre, this gallery houses a terrific collection of recent paintings and sculptures, with space for new exhibitions. In the basement is one of Glasgow's many public libraries, with free internet access and cafe. Free.
Glasgow Science Center
Glasgow Science Center
  • Glasgow Science Centre, Pacific Quay (train: Exhibition Centre or subway: Cessnock)[31]. Has hundreds of interactive science exhibits for children, an IMAX cinema, and the 125-meter Glasgow Tower (re-opened summer 2004), the only tower in the world which can rotate through 360 degrees from its base. Every day, 10:00AM-6:00PM. £10 adults, £8 children for any two of the main attractions.
  • Transmission Gallery[32], a gallery set up in 1983 by ex-students of the Glasgow School of Art as a hub for the local art community and to provide exhibition space.
  • Street level photoworks[33], an alternative art gallery/installation space
  • Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Argyle Street (subway: Kelvinhall), tel 287-2699.[34] One of the finest civic collections in Europe is housed within this Glasgow Victorian landmark museum. The collections include everything from fine and decorative arts to archaeology and the natural world. Open M-Th,Sa 10:00AM-5:00PM; F,Su 11:00AM-5:00PM. Free.
  • McLellan Galleries, Sauchiehall Street, tel 565-4137.[35] Normally used as a temporary space for visiting exhibitions, this is a grade II listed building in the center of Glasgow. Open M-Th,Sa 10:00AM-5:00PM; F,Su 11:00AM-5:00PM. Currently used by the Glasgow School of Art during work on the Mackintosh building.
  • Museum of Transport, Kelvin Hall, Bunhouse Road (subway: Kelvinhall), tel 287-2720.[36] The museum uses its collections of vehicles and models to tell the story of transport by land and sea, with a unique Glasgow flavour. Besides the usual rail locomotives, buses, trams, cars and planes, the museum also includes a recreated subway station, and a street scene of old Glasgow. Open M-Th,Sa 10:00AM-5:00PM; F,Su 11:00AM-5:00PM. Free.
  • Provand's Lordship, Castle Street (opposite Glasgow Cathedral), tel 552-8819.[37] Glasgow's oldest remaining house, built in 1471, has been renovated to give visitors and idea what the inside of a Glasgow house was like circa 1700. Open M-Th,Sa 10:00AM-5:00PM; F,Su 11:00AM-5:00PM. Free.
  • Sharmanka, 14 King Street.[38] Sharmanka is a Kinetic Gallery / Theatre. It consists of a number of strange machines created by the Russian artists Eduard Bersudsky. The machines perform stories and the light and sound during the performance adds to a really unique and amazing experience. Performances Thu, Sun 7:00PM or by individual appointment. £4, children under 16 free.
  • People's Palace and Winter Gardens on Glasgow Green.[39] The People's Palace is a great folk museum, telling the history of Glasgow and its people, from various perspectives. Free. The Winter Garden, adjacent, has a reasonable cafe.
  • Tenement House, 145 Buccleuch Street, Garnethill.[40] A National Trust for Scotland site, a middle class Glasgow tenement house preserved in pretty much the way it was in the early 20th Century.
  • St. Mungo's Museum of Religious Life and Art, 2 Castle Street.[41] Next to Glasgow Cathedral, the museum features exhibits relating not only to Glasgow's patron saint and the growth of Christianity in the city, but numerous exhibits pertaining to many faiths practised locally and worldwide. Free entry.

Do

There are many nightclubs, concerts and festivals in Glasgow.

Music

Glasgow's been famous for its music scene(s) for at least 20 years, with venues such as the legendary Barrowland Ballroom and King Tut's Wah Wah Hut now garnering world acclaim. There's plenty of venues where you're likely to see a good band (and lots of bad bands too); on any day of the week there should be at least several shows to choose from throughout the city, with the number increasing to a even greater variety on Thursday, Friday & Saturday. In no particular order, here follows some pop/indie/rock-orientated venues:

  • Nice 'n' Sleazy on Sauchiehall St.
  • King Tut's Wah Wah Hut on St Vincent St, [42].
  • ABC on Sauchiehall St, [43].
  • 13th Note on King St (just off Argyle Street/Trongate), [44].
  • The Cathouse on Union St (around the corner from Central railway station).
  • Barfly on Clyde St, [45].
  • Mono [46] restaurant and record shop.
  • Stereo City centre venue with regular indie gigs downstairs, bar and cafe upstairs [47].
  • The Barrowland Ballroom in the East End, [48].
  • Carling Academy Glasgow on Eglinton St (south of the Clyde near Bridge Street Subway), [49].
  • The Arches on Argyle St (beneath Central Station), [50].
  • The Vale on Dundas St (next to Buchanan Street Subway station).
  • QMU at University Gardens (in the West End of the city), [51].

The The Scottish Exhibition & Conference Centre [52] is the city's premier music venue for major headline acts, even if the acoustics of the halls have always been questionable. More intimate gigs are held in the neighbouring Clyde Auditorium (or Armadillo). SECC Tickets [53] sells tickets for these.

The Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, Sauchiehall Street (nearest Subway: Buchanan Street)[54]. This is the home of The Royal Scottish National Orchestra [55], one of Europe's leading symphony orchestras. It also produces the world famous Celtic Connections Festival [56] every January.

The Glasgow International Jazz Festival [57] is held every year in June.

Other music festivals or music orientated fesivals of note include Celtic Connections (January), The West End Festival, the Merchant City Festival and numerous others. As always, consult the listings magazine The List for further details.

Comedy

There are two main venues for stand-up comedy in Glasgow.

  • The Stand on Woodlands Road (West End)
  • Jongleurs in the City Centre

Although other pubs and clubs frequently hold comedy events: see the listings magazine The List for details.

CF also the Magners Glasgow International Comedy Festival held yearly thoroughout March/April.

Cinema

The most interesting films in Glasgow are shown at:

  • Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT), 12 Rose St, 332 8128, [58]. Excellent choice of classics, also art and foreign-language movies.
  • The Grosvenor, Ashton Lane (just off Byres Road in the West End), [59].
  • CCA, on Sauchiehall St, [60]. Shows films, though it's primarily an art gallery.

Mainstream films can be seen at the Cineworld on Renfrew St, which is the tallest cinema in the world [61]

Football

Supporters of Celtic and Rangers display their banners at half time in a derby match
Supporters of Celtic and Rangers display their banners at half time in a derby match

Glasgow also has the 3 biggest football stadia in Scotland. The major events in the football season are the clashes between the two Premier league clubs, Celtic and Rangers. Known as the "Old Firm" matches, these 90 minute competitions produce a profound effect on the city, occasionally, but less frequently in recent times, resulting in violent clashes during or after the game. Cup ties between these two giants are quite frequent, raising the tensions further. Be aware that getting tickets for "Old Firm" games can be difficult and cup ties near impossible. If you do go to one of these matches it is advised that you do not wear team colours (blue and red for Rangers, green for Celtic) after the match.

  • Hampden Park (5 star) The national stadium, [62]. Hampden hosts many large sporting events and concerts and also houses the Scottish Football Museum. The Scottish national football team plays its home games here. Is also home to Queen's Park Football Club.
  • Celtic Park, [63].
  • Ibrox Stadium, [64].
  • Firhill, [65] - Home of Partick Thistle Football Club, also known as "the Jags". It has a capacity of 14,538.

Parks

For a large city, Glasgow has a surprising number of parks and green spaces; there is more parkland here than in any other British city. The most famous of these is Glasgow Green. [66] Founded by Royal grant in 1450, Glasgow Green has slowly been enclosed by the city and evolved from grazing land into a modern public park. The highlights are:

If you should fall in

Glasgow Green is the home of the Glasgow Humane Society. The Society was founded in 1790 and is the world's oldest practical life-saving body. Until June 2005 the society volunteers were responsible for rescuing those unfortunate to fall into the River Clyde. Unfortunately modern heath and safety regulations require two life boat men on duty and a lack of volunteers has forced the sole lifeboat man, George Parsonage, to stand down the service after 215 years. The rescue service is now performed by the Strathclyde Fire Brigade.

  • Nelson's memorial - an obelisk or needle: built to commemorate Nelson's victory at the battle of Trafalgar
  • The Peoples Palace Museum - displaying details of Glasgow life (including one of Billy Connolly's banana boots)
  • The Templeton carpet factory - with its ornate brick work; now a business center
  • The Doulton fountain - recently renovated, it's the largest terracotta fountain in the world

"The Green" as its known to the locals is also one of the major venues for concerts and open air events in Glasgow. The best way to get there is on foot from either Bridgeton or Argyle Street railway stations or from the bus routes along London Road. There is limited official parking in or around the green and the area is notorious for car crime. Be aware the council will tow away illegally parked vehicles and charge you up to £250 pounds to get them back!

Kelvingrove Park [67] in the city's West End is also a very popular park, particularly with the students from the nearby University. The most prominent landmark here is the Art Gallery and Museum [68] on the banks of the River Kelvin which runs through the park. It also contains a recently constructed skate park.

Other sites

  • s1 Play lists what is on in Glasgow [69].
  • Tickets Scotland lists events and ticket availability for Scotland, primarily Edinburgh and Glasgow [70].

Gay & Lesbian

Glasgow has a lively scene which centres around the Merchant City area (the so called "Pink Triangle" formed by Revolver, Bennets and the Polo Lounge). Bias is more marked in Glasgow, and the city's gay venues are consequently not as publicly visible as in Scotland's capital, or deliberately flaunted as is the case in London and Manchester. Nevertheless, the city is still gay-friendly, which is shown in the annual "Glasgay" celebrations in October.

Out & About

Bennetts, 80-90 Glassford Street, Glasgow G1 1UR, +44 (0)141 552 5761, [71]. 6W-Su 11:30PM-3:30AM. This venue is situated over two levels with all you could want from a gay club. £3-W,Th,Su £5-F&Sa. edit

The Polo Lounge, 84 Wilson St, Glasgow G1 1UZ, +44 (0)141 553 1221, [72]. M-Th 5PM-1AM, F-Su 5PM-3A. The upstairs bar is tastefully decorated in a Victorian style and is a great place to relax with friends. Downstairs boasts two dance areas, one playing all your pop favourites, the other chart and dance tunes. The crowd here is very mixed. Entry Fee on Fri & Sat Night. edit

MODA, 58 Virginia Street, Glasgow G1 1TX, +44 (0)141 553 2553, [73]. M-Su 5PM-LATE!. Speciality - Cocktails & Funky DJs! edit

Revolver, 6a John Street, Glasgow G1 1JQ (Opposite the Italian Centre and downstairs next door to the 'Gay Chippie'), +44 (0)141 5532456, [74]. M-Su 11AM-1AM. Mixed and relaxed crowd. Small and friendly bar with a great Pub Quiz on a Sunday afternoon. edit

Radio, Ashton Lane, Glasgow (What self respecting homosexual needs directions to Ashton Lane nowadays), +44 (0)141 3346688, [75]. M-Sat 12PM-12AM. Mixed and relaxed crowd. Small and friendly bar with a great theme nights!. edit

Health & Support

Strathclyde Gay & Lesbian Switchboard, '''Gay & Lesbian Line''' - Tel. +44 (0)141 847 0447, M-Su 7PM-10PM. '''Lesbian Line''' - Tel. +44 (0)141 847 0647, Wed 7.30PM-10PM (''Staffed only by women''). '''Homophobic Crime Reporting Line''' - Tel. +44 (0)141 847 0647, [76]. M-Su 7PM-10PM. Free and Confidential Telephone Counselling in the West of Scotland. edit

The Glasgow LGBT Centre, 11 Dixon Street, Glasgow G1 4AL, +44 (0)141 221 7203, [77]. M-Su 11AM-MIDNIGHT. Support, Advocacy, Welfare and Learning. The centre is fully wheelchair accessible with a chairlift. edit

Glasgow Women's Library, 81 Parnie Street (2nd Floor), Glasgow G1 5RH, +44 (0)141 552 8345, [78]. Reading, Writing, Groups and Events. The library is fully wheelchair accessible (contact the Library in advance). edit

The Sandyford Centre (The Steve Retson Project), 6 Sandyford Place, Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, +44 (0)141 211 8628, [79]. Tu&W 5.30PM-8.30PM. A sexual health service for gay men in Glasgow. edit

The Glasgow LGBT Centre (The Steve Retson Project), 11 Dixon St Glasgow, G1 4AL, +44 (0)141 211 8628, [80]. Th 5.30PM-8.30PM. A sexual health service for gay men in Glasgow. edit

PHACE Scotland, Top Floor, Rothesay House, 134 Douglas Street, Glasgow G2 4HF, +44 (0)141 332 3838, [81]. Promoting Health and Challenging Exclusion. edit

Learn

The University of Glasgow
The University of Glasgow

Glasgow has three universities:

  • University of Glasgow [82]. Located in the west end of the city, this university has served Glasgow since 1451 and is the fourth oldest in the United Kingdom, and also one of the country's most prestigious.
  • University of Strathclyde [83] is situated in the north-east of the city centre and was originally founded in 1796 as Anderson's University, and later became the Royal College of Science and Technology (affectionately nicknamed "The Tech" by Glaswegians) before finally gaining full University status in 1964. In 1993 it absorbed the former Jordanhill College of Education, and gained that institution's campus in the West End.
  • Glasgow Caledonian University [84], to the north of the city centre, is Glasgow's newest university. It was formed from the merger of Glasgow College of Technology and Queens' College in 1992.

Work

Jobs in Glasgow can be found through the government-run JobCentres. Be aware that you will need a National Insurance number and, if you are not a citizen of the European Economic Area or Switzerland, the correct type of work visa to work legally in the UK. Your employer should require this to ensure you pay the correct rates of income tax. However if you ask around you'll find a lot of bars and nightclubs offer work cash-in-hand. Some of the many temp agencies in the city centre aren't too fussy about immigration niceties either. With the city's growing financial services industry, there are quite a lot of opportunities for office temps.

Buy

Glasgow has positioned itself as an upmarket retail destination, the shopping is the some of the best in Scotland, and generally accepted as the No.2 shopping experience in Britain after London. Buchanan Street is the 7th most expensive place for retail space in the world, which means that there's an increasing number of designer clothes shops in areas like the Merchant City. Alongside this, the Council is putting pressure on more traditional shopping centres like the Barras where you can get remarkably similar-looking clothes for a more sensible price.

The epicentre of Glasgow shopping is the so-called "Golden Z", made up of the largely pedestrianised thoroughfares of Argyle Street, Buchanan Street and Sauchiehall Street. Here, virtually all of the big name retailers are represented, with some of the stores being second only to their Oxford Street counterparts in London in terms of size.

There are larger shopping malls on the city outskirts at Braehead, Silverburn and Glasgow Fort.

  • The Barras[85] in the East End is the essential Glasgow shopping experience. Hundreds of market stalls selling everything you could possibly want and a load of other stuff too. Free entertainment available from time to time when the Police raid the place for counterfeit goods. Open 10AM - 5PM every weekend; weekday opening in the weeks immediately before Christmas.
  • Paddy's Market under cover near Saltmarket. Glasgow's (in)famous flea market is now an endangered species - the City Council served a notice in September 2008 to abolish it on account of high levels of drug related crime.
  • The Buchanan Galleries, Buchanan Street, is a large shopping mall in the heart of the city centre which has all the usual British high street stores.
  • The St Enoch Centre. Europe's largest glass roofed building - this huge mall is located on St Enoch Square between Argyle Street and Buchanan Street. Currently undergoing a major refurbishment as of 2008 with the St Enoch side of the building being demolished and extended.
  • Princes Square is an upmarket mall just off Buchanan Street in the city centre. Specialises in designer clothes shops, jewellery and audio equipment.
  • The Argyle Arcade is a covered street housing Scotland's largest collection of jewellery shops. The arcade connects Argyle Street and Buchanan Street.
  • De Courcy's Arcade is an unusual little shopping arcade with lots of second hand music and book shops and independent gift shops. Located just off Byres Road in the west end (subway: Hillhead)

Eat

Glasgow has won the title "Curry Capital of Britain" two years running and has a huge and dynamic range of restaurants, Indian or otherwise. Despite the city being the birthplace of local hero Gordon Ramsay, disappointingly there are no Michelin-starred fine dining establishments in Glasgow (the one Michelin starred establishent - owned by Ramsay himself - embarrasingly folded several years ago), nevertheless there are scores of highly regarded eateries in the city. If you are looking for last minute deals on dining, 5pm.co.uk [86] lists many offers. It is possible to search for restaurants in Glasgow on the site. Note that this service requires you to register on the website. There are clusters of good restaurants in the West End and the Merchant City.

Takeaway

Glasgow has taken many different cultural foods and combined them into a unique dining experience. Most takeaways offer Indian dishes (pakora), pizzas and kebabs as well as the more traditional fish and chips or burgers. This has resulted in some takeaways offering a blend of dishes like chips with curry sauce, the donner kebab pizza, the battered and deep fried pizza to name but a few.

British

Fish & Chips (aka "Fish Supper") is a perennial favourite, and there are a healthy number of fish and chip shops around the city. As mentioned above, many will also offer Asian or Italian dishes alongside the traditional chip shop fayre. Given Glasgow's well publicised love of "junk food", bad establishments don't usually last long and consequently most are of good quality. In the centre of town, four of the best "chippies" are:

  • Jack McPhees, Hope Street (City Centre - off Sauchiehall Street & Byres Road, West End). Chain of sit down restauarant with table service. Slightly more expensive than a takeaway, but excellent quality.
  • The Coronation, Gallowgate, (just east of Glasgow Cross in the Barrowlands). A Glasgow institution - the usual friendly Glaswegian reception and competitively priced.
  • Da Vinci's, Queen Street (City Centre, opposite Archaos nightclub). Late night dining in this handily positioned sit-down takeaway near many of the city's nightclubs.
  • Santini's, John Street (Merchant City, 200yds from the City Chambers). Affectionately known as the "gay chippie" since it is next door to Revolver, one of Glasgow's best gay bars, it is open into the small hours and offers a variety of takeaway dishes.

Chinese

  • Yumla, 80 Miller Street, (Merchant City). Located in the heart of Glasgow, close to George Square. This delightful restaurant will captivate your taste buds with Peking and Cantonese cuisine. Freshly prepared with unrivalled skill, dishes are served by friendly, attentive staff.
  • Ho Wong's, 82 York Street, [87]. Close to Central Station. Excellent Chinese Restaurant.
  • Dragon's I, 311-313 Hope Street, [88]. In the Theatre District. ('Hitlisted') in The List (2008).
  • Amber Regent, 50 West Regent Street, [89]. Equidistant between Queen Street and Central Station. Recommended by the Michelin Guide and the Good Food Guide.

European

  • Brel, Ashton Lane, Glasgow G12 8SJ (In the West End off Byres Road - nearest Subway: Hillhead), Tel. +44 (0)141 342 4966, [90]. M-Su 12PM-Late. Located in the dynamic Ashton Lane in the West End of Glasgow, this restaurant is well known for its Belgian fare particularly their Moules (Mussel) Pots in a variety of flavours. This Bar/Restaurant is set over 3 levels and sells a range of Belgian beers, including Banana and Raspberry, along with a few of the local Scottish favourites. During the warmer weather there is a large Beer Garden at the rear. This place used to have a VIBE (sadly diluted by the bridge and tunnel crowd) and is ideal for a delicious meal or just for a drink. There is often free live entertainment. Prices: à la carte menu, starters: £2.95-£4.95 and mains: £8.95-£15.50. Also great deals at Food Happy Hour M-Su 5PM-7PM!
  • Stravaigin , (28 Gibson Street, West End - nearest Subway: Kelvinbridge), Tel. +44 (0)141 334 2665, [91] Located adjacent to Glasgow University and Kelvingrove Park, this award winning gastro-pub offers a wide selection of both European and World cuisine made from Scottish ingedients. Also reknowned for its creative cocktails.

Indian

Most of the good Indian restaurants are clustered together between Charing Cross & Berkeley Street. Take your pick from Panjea, Ashoka Flame, Mr Singh's India, Mother India's Cafe and more. There are also literally dozens of takeaway Indian restaurants around the city, although the quality of these can be very variable.

Another great place to visit is the award winning Killermont Polo Club on Maryhill Road.

Also, The Koh-I-Noor on Charing Cross is worth a look.

Italian

  • Esca near the Tron Theatre is good and inexpensive but often busy.
  • Antipasti (Byres Road & Sauchiehall Street) Excellent quality restaurant; the Byres Road Antipasti is the better of the two. Antipasti does not offer table bookings -- just show up and ask for a table. You won't be waiting too long.
  • Di Maggio's [92] (Royal Exchange Square, Merchant City; West Nile Street, City Centre) Locally owned chain of family-friendly Italian restaurants with several outlets in the city and outlying towns. Good value and usually no need to book.
  • Dino's (35-41 Sauchiehall Street, immediately opposite Cineworld and Royal Concert Hall) One of Glasgow's oldest and best known Italian restaurants. Good quality and friendly service.
  • L'Ariosto [93], 92-94 Mitchell Street, Glasgow G1 3NQ (3 minute walk from Central railway station). One of Glasgow's top Italian restaurants - expensive but award winning and offers its own courtyard and live music.
  • La Parmigiana [94] (447 Great Western Road). One of the best of the West End's Italian restaurants, but more upmarket than most.

Mexican

  • Pancho Villas, 26 Bell Street, Glasgow G1 1LG (in the Merchant City area opposite Merchant Square), Tel. +44 (0)141 552 7737, [95]. M-Sa 12PM to Late, Su 5PM - Late. A variety of high quality and generous Mexican style dishes, including vegetarian meals. The restaurant which is split over two floors offers a welcoming and ambient environment, whether it be for a work related function, romantic meal or birthday party. It is often very busy of an evening especially towards the end of the week, so it is best to make a reservation. Prices: Set Meals are available Mo-Th between 12PM-5PM for 2Courses - £6.95 and 3Courses - £8.50. A-la-carte Menu, Starters: £2.50-£7.95 and Mains: £8.50-£12.95.

Russian

  • Cafe Cossachok [96] on King Street.

Fish

As befits a port town, Glasgow excels at Seafood and fish.

  • Gamba [97] (225a West George Street), Winner of The List's (local listing magazine) 'Best Restaurant in Glasgow' award, 2003 and 2004. Two AA rosettes.
  • Mussel Inn [98] (157 Hope Street), Good quality fish restaurant: has a sister restaurant in Edinburgh.
  • Rogano (11 Exchange Place), Sumptuous 1930s style architecture for a total dining experience. Rogano is a Glasgow institution, but beware, especially if you get sucked into their vintage wine list, this place can be extremely expensive.

Veggie

For fab veggie food try:

  • Grassroots, on St George's Road, near Woodlands Road (subway: St George's Cross). Great veggie breakfasts from 10am, and other meals from midday till late. Lots of vegan options, too. Grassroots also has one of the two best wholefood/organic shops in Glasgow, around the corner in Woodlands Road; the other is Roots and Fruits in Great Western Road (subway: Kelvinbridge).
  • The Fast Food Shop, pakora place on Woodlands Road is ideal for guilt-free snacking on the way home from the pub.
  • 13th Note, on King Street, [99]. Looks like an anarchist squat when you walk in, and has a full bar, and serves very good veggie (mainly vegan) food. Try the vegan haggis, neeps and tatties, served with a pink-peppercorn cream sauce.
  • Mono, over the road in King's Court, is run by the people who established the Note. It has a lighter, airier feel but with an exclusively vegan menu, beers prepared on-site and two shops (food and records).
  • The 78, organic/vegan pub & restaurant in Kelvinhaugh Street (off the west end of Argyle St).
  • Tchai Ovna tea houses with veggie food, located in West End (off Bank St) and Shawlands. [100]

For a full and up to date guide to vegan and vegetarian Glasgow, try rhizomatics.org.uk [101]

International

Glasgow is a city of immigrants and has a thriving international food scene. Try Mzouda (Moroccan), Cafe Argan (Moroccan), Shallal (Lebanese), Kokuryo (Korean), Koshkemeer (Kurdish), Café Serghei (Greek) Alla Turca (Turkish) La Tasca (Spanish), Ichiban (Japanese), Kublai Khan's (Mongolian) and the numerous Thai, Malaysian and Chinese restaurants, including the Yumla, Thai Fountain, Ho Wongs, the Amber Regent and many others. See local listings magazine The List and its Eating and Drinking Guide for further details.

Drink

Pubs are arguably the meeting rooms of Scotland’s largest city, and many a lively discussion can be heard in a Glasgow bar. There is nothing Glaswegians love more than “putting the world right” over a pint (or three), whether it’s the Old Firm, religion, weather, politics or how this year’s holidays went. You are guaranteed a warm welcome from the locals, who will soon strike up a conversation.

There are three (or, arguably, four) basic drinking areas: these are also good for restaurants. First, there is the West End (which is, essentially, the area near the University of Glasgow): try Ashton Lane (home of BarBrel and others). Second there is the area near Charing Cross (sometimes, confusingly, also called the West End) especially the area between Charing Cross and the Royal Concert Hall. Thirdly there is the Merchant City, which is near Strathclyde University Campus. This is the most 'upmarket' area to drink and eat in, although it still has numerous student dives. Finally, and up and coming, is the South Side (i.e. South of the Clyde). This used to be very much 'behind the times' sociallly speaking, but the relocation of the BBC to the South Side and the whole area generally moving 'upmarket' has improved things greatly. Try the area round Shawlands Cross for restaurants, bars, and The Shed nightclub.

The following is merely a selection of the many bars, pubs and wine bars throughout the city.

For single malt whiskies, try The Pot Still on Hope Street, a few blocks north of Central Station. It stocks over 300 single malt whiskeys (as well as other drinks, of course), and the staff really know their stuff. It's also an excellent example of a traditional British pub, with a great atmosphere.

Other bars with a good selection of whisky are Uisge Beatha (pronounced "ooshke beh-hah" - Gaelic for "whisky"; literal translation is "water of life") on Woodlands Road and there's one called Ben Nevis on Argyle St towards the West End.

If you're a fan of real ale, one of the best establishments and conveniently located in the lovely West End is The Three Judges on Dumbarton Road (at Partick Cross, the bottom part of Byres Road). They have a continually changing board of ales from all over the UK on tap as well as a cider. They also have a fantastic selection of imported bottled beers in the fridge and Frambozen on tap. If you're in the city centre, The State off Sauchiehall Street is a similarly good ale venue and a cosy proper pub if you're sick of trendy bars.

The West End has many student-oriented bars, catering of course for Glasgow University, centering around Byres Road and Ashton Lane. Curlers, one of the most famous, is now part of the "Scream" chain and is located next door to Hillhead tube station on Byres Road. Scream also operates The Ark adjacent to Strathclyde University's city centre campus just north of George Square. Coopers is a new bar very near the University, at which students and lecturers are often found relaxing after a hard week working. The Lansdowne is a West End pub and restaurant that has a relaxed vibe and DJs at the weekend. Brel's (as its name suggests) is a Belgian theme bar (excellent choice of both local and Belgian beers) with good music from time to time and is popular with students from the nearby University.

It is often said that the 'real' Glasgow can be encountered at the Horseshoe Bar in Drury Street (near Central Station). The rock band Travis used to rehearse upstairs before hitting the big time; as a token of thanks, one of their Brit Awards is displayed behind the bar.

If you like your rock & metal music you should try RG's -Rock Garden on Queen street (about 2 mins walk south of the station), the The Solid Rock Cafe at the bottom of Hope street, Rufus T.Firefly's at the top of Hope street and the Crowbar in between.

Real Ale can be found at the Bon Accord on Charing X, Clockwork BeerCo near Hampden Park, and also The Three Judges on the Dumbarton Road, at the bottom of Byres Road, which has won the CAMRA award (Campaign For Real Ale) most years for the past 2 decades.

Republic Bier Halle, just off Buchanan Street, has beers from all round the world and a sister branch in the Southside.

Waxy O'Connor's is a vaguely Irish themed bar (on West George Street, near Queen Street Station) which boasts six bars, nine rooms and three floors. The premises is a fun place, with steps and stairs running up and down through the maze of rooms and bars. Worth a visit, even if just to find the restrooms! It can be spacious and intimate at the same time, which you will only understand if you go there. It has loads of wood beams and an imitation treetrunk rooftop, which adds to the confusion of the church theme and 'Lord of the Rings'-like setting. Enjoyable place to visit with friends. If you prefer a slightly less artificial Irish theme pub, Failte (St. Vincent Street, a short walk from Central Station) is a locally owned non-chain establishment and popular with locals - although on major Celtic match days it can be near impossible to get into!

Bath Street has a constantly shifting array of "style bars", which become more numerous as you walk up towards the financial district on Blythswood Hill. The quality varies wildly depending on your taste and tolerance. One recommended bar is Bunker [102] on the corner of Hope Street and Bath Street. The financial district itself is becoming a hotbed for new pubs and wine bars popping up between the many new office buildings.

Be warned though about dress codes, particularly in some of the more upmarket establishments in the city centre and West End - sportswear and trainers are often banned, and some door staff are notoriously "selective" about who they do and don't allow in. The general "boozer" type pubs don't have dress codes, but football shirts are almost universally banned in all - particularly on weekends. One rule to be aware of is that some clubs and upmarket pubs enforce an unwritten policy of not allowing all-male groups of more than about four people. For this reason, it may be advisable to split into groups of 2 or 3. Some pubs in Glasgow are also exclusively the haunt of Old Firm football fans - again these will be very crowded on football days and can get very rowdy, and best avoided by the tourist. Fortunately they are easy to spot - for example a large cluster of Celtic-oriented pubs exist in the Barrowlands area, while one or two bars on or near Paisley Road West are favourite haunts of Rangers fans.

If you want live music with your pint go to the See / Music section above.

Sleep

Apartment rentals :


- Europapart : info@europapart.eu

Contact

Phone

Glasgow's area code (for landline numbers) is 0141. When calling from outside the UK, drop the leading 0 and use the UK international dial code +44.

Internet

If you are travelling with a laptop then you will find broadband internet access in the rooms of most, but not all, medium to high end hotels. If this is important to you, check before booking. Alternatively, there are many Wi-Fi hot spots in and around Glasgow and WiFinder [122] provides a register.

There are also several places that offer web and other internet access if you are travelling without a laptop. These include:

  • Yeeha Internet, 48 West Geogre Street (30 seconds from Queen Street Station), (0)141 332 6543.
  • EasyInternetCafé [123] - St Vincent Street (just west of Buchanan Street, five minutes' walk from Central or Queen Street stations). Every day, 8AM-9PM.
  • i-Cafe, 15 Gibson Street (2mins from Woodlands Rd, West End), (0)141 339 3333.
  • Mortons Coffee Co., Byres Road (subway: Hillhead). Offers free Wi-Fi internet access and two PCs.
  • Salvesens Cafe [124] -- 8 Park Terrace, 2 internet terminals available in the basement of Glasgow Youth Hostel, (0)141 332 3004.
  • The Goat is a nicely appointed bar which also offers free & unlimited wi-fi access & has a laptop available for loan. Excellent bar food also available. Argyll St. Near Kelvingrove Gallery & the Museum of Transport.
  • Offshore Coffee Shop, Gibson Street, beside the River Kelvin in the west end. Offers free wireless access and has good coffee. There is also an art gallery in the basement.

Stay safe

Glasgow safety - top tips

Glasgow is fortunate in that its most dangerous suburbs are well away from the central area and therefore it would be near impossible to accidentally venture into one of the city's troublespots unless you were making a conscious effort to do so. Nevertheless, for the tourist - the following advice should be heeded -

  • Avoid football colours, Although you'll see it being worn everywhere by the locals, don't be tempted to wear any piece of Old Firm (i.e. Rangers or Celtic) related clothing when walking around the city as it can lead to violence if you meet the wrong people in the wrong place - particularly in the evenings. The underlying sectarian politics that underpin this infamous football fixture is part of the very fabric of Glaswegian life, but as a tourist it is something you should in general avoid getting involved in. In fact a sensible tip is to make sure your visit to Glasgow does not clash with the actual Celtic v Rangers fixture, as the city can have an unpleasant and divided atmosphere about it on this particular day, not making it the best place to be for a casual visitor. Most bars and clubs in the centre of the city universally ban all football colours - regardless of team.
  • Paddy's Market / Shipbank Lane. This area around the southern end of Saltmarket has become a hot spot for muggings and other violent crime in the evenings in recent years - even though Paddy's Market itself is a draw for some tourists. Another area to avoid in the evenings are the backstreets in and around Central Station - in particular the areas around the entrances to the underground platforms (14 & 15) of the station.
  • Street gangs are prevalent in the problem areas of Glasgow. Avoid venturing out of the central area of the city at night on your own if you are not absolutely sure where you are going. Groups of youngsters can often be seen congregating around street corners, outside take-aways and pretty much anywhere that sells alcohol and can behave aggressively. You may be approached and asked to buy alcohol for them - note that this is illegal and you could end up being prosecuted.
  • Public Transport. Be aware that the Subway and the overground suburban railways cease operating after 11:30pm (the Subway closes at 18:00pm on Sundays), meaning that you will have to resort to a bus or a taxi to get back to the centre of town if you leave it too late. Buses can get very rowdy on Friday and Saturday nights, and for this reason it is best to sit near the front of the bus within easy sight of the driver. If in doubt at all - flag down a black taxi - these will be shuttling back and forth on all the main thoroughfares in and out of the city centre into the the early hours of the morning.

Despite the city's reputation for being a violent place, things have improved a lot over the years, and generally Glasgow is no more dangerous than most other British or Western European cities, but problems with crime still persist in some areas. The title "Murder Capital of Europe" owes more to tabloids and true-crime books than hard statistics, and there are areas of Britain with far higher murder rates. If you are exploring the city by foot, you will almost certainly become very aware you are leaving a tourist-friendly area long before you would be in an area which is actually dangerous. The centre of Glasgow is in the main, very safe and you should not encounter any problems. All of the city centre and tourist areas are well policed. During the day, the City Centre also has many 'information officers' in red hats and jackets who should be able to assist you if needed. However - the basic commonsense rules apply:-

  • Do not flash large sums of money or jewellery around. Pickpocketing is not as rife in Glasgow as in say London but it still happens. Keep all wallets and mobile phones in an inside pocket.
  • Avoid using ATMs at night on darkly lit or quiet streets. There are plenty on the main thoroughfares in the centre of town, and inside both Queen Street and Central railway stations which are well policed.
  • The two main parks in the centre of town (Glasgow Green and Kelvingrove) are generally safe during the day, but Glasgow Green in particular can be frequented by delinquent youths and drunks and is best avoided in the evenings. The area is also notorious for car crime. Kelvingrove, despite its central location, is a haunt of drug dealers and gay (male) sexworkers during the night, and is well worth avoiding, especially by women, as it can be violent.
  • It is not uncommon (particularly if male, approximately under 35, and alone or in a couple or small group) to be approached by beggars or drug addicts for money or cigarettes when walking through the city centre - and are often seen loitering around ATMs and car park payment machines. These are almost always harmless and (at least superficially) friendly and will rarely harass you to any great degree. Saying that (in the case of money) you don't have any cash on you at the moment or (in the case of cigarettes) that you don't smoke will usually get rid of them, and even the most determined will rarely be looking for anything more than £1 anyway (though if you do plan to give them money, use common sense and do not take out and put on full display a wallet full of cash or a pocketful of change, which will almost certainly have them demanding more than whatever you give them).

Prostitution is a fact of life in all major cities, Glasgow being no exception. The "Red Light" areas are as follows:

Around Anderston station and the Finnieston St area, the Calton area of the east end (East of the "Barras") especially around the Tennents brewery, the eastern end of Glasgow Green from the Peoples Palace to Bridgeton Cross area. These areas function as red light areas more or less 24/7: however it should be noted that they are well worth avoiding at night as they are quite far from the city centre and are poorly lit. There is also a red light district in the 'financial centre' (Anderston: West of Central Station) although this only becomes a red light district from about 9pm onwards (or after dark during winter). This area in particular is very heavily policed.

It should be noted that whereas prostitution is legal in Scotland, 'soliciting' (i.e. prostitutes soliciting for business), and 'running a brothel' are illegal: brothels and 'massage parlours' can be (and are) frequently busted by the police and their 'customers' taken into police custody at least temporarily. It should also be noted that since the Prostitution (Public Places) (Scotland) Act came into effect in 2008, the police are increasingly cracking down on 'Kerb Crawling'. Therefore lone males should drive or walk around the red light districts at their own risk, and should be aware that if the police suspect them of attempting to solicit a prostitute they can be arrested and charged. In these areas, especially during summer, prostitutes from these areas occasionally provide sexual services in 'private' (but open air) parts of the city. Yet again, this is illegal, and, again, 'customers' caught having any form of sexual activity in what the law sees as a public place (i.e. not a private residence or a hotel) will be charged.

Strathclyde Police, the local police force, has a Stay Safe while Travelling guide [125].

Get out

  • Visit Loch Lomond and climb the nearby Ben Lomond (the most southerly Munro) for great views.
  • Edinburgh, Scotland's capital city, is 46 miles to the east of Glasgow and is easily reachable by train or by bus.
  • Walk the West Highland Way from Milngavie (a suburb of Glasgow) all the way to Fort William. The scenery on the latter half of the walk is absolutely breathtaking and takes you through the heart of Glen Coe, generally regarded as one of the most beautiful areas of Scotland.
  • Take a day-trip to the Isle of Arran. It is possible to obtain train/ferry combo tickets to reach this destination. The Isle of Arran is known as "Scotland in Miniature" due to the fact it contains many features of mainland Scotland in microcosm. Brodick Castle is home to beautiful gardens and has a path connecting to path up Goatfell, the highest point on Arran which offers stunning views of Brodick bay during the summer (Castle is located at the north end of Brodick, student discount available). The island is also littered with sites of archaeological and historical interest including many circles of ancient standing stones. Take one of the circle island buses to see it all, watch your time though- know the last bus and ferry of the day. There is a beautiful bay with a castle in the middle on the Northeast in a village called Lochranza.
  • Take a day trip to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute on the paddle steamer Waverley. You can catch the Waverley at the Broomielaw on the banks of the River Clyde, just a short walk from the city centre.
  • Owned by the National Trust for Scotland Greenbank House and Gardens [126] make for a pleasant day out in one of Glasgow's leafier suburbs. It's a 30 minute walk from Clarkston railway station. The garden's have proven to be an inspiration to gardeners throughout the world.
Credits to Wikitravel. Based on work by David Edgar, tmcelroy64@hotmail.com and Mark Sheffield, Wikitravel user(s) AlasdairW, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.

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